Orkneys to Glasgow
(First, if you haven't noticed yet, pictures have been added for the last several posts. Go on and re-read them.)
Monday, late morning. I'm writing on the train, currently stationed in Inverness and about to depart to Perth, where we'll change for a train to Glasgow.
Yesterday we woke early in Stromness, packed our bags, and rolled them to the ferry terminal. Our bag wheels are getting some serious mileage on these paving stones. We had breakfast on the ferry in a restaurant nicer (meaning, cleaner and more appealing) than most we'd seen on the island. Then we bused to Thuro, waiting about an hour for the train to Inverness. The waiting crowd gave a wide berth to a group of guys who looked kinda like thugs, talking loudly, drinking cheap lagers and having smokes. They were about my age, too. It seems kind of a unique subculture - I saw some similar packs in Inverness. They tend to wear soccer (football) shirts, and like wearing the wrong color in gang territory, you take a risk wearing the wrong football club's shirt in the wrong place. I guess each culture has its own unique way of acting out.
With the rare sunny weather, the train ride was especially enjoyable. It's such a gorgeous countryside. Open fields, lots of gazing livestock, stone fences (just stacked stone, no mortar apparent ... must have been lots of work, but they do last, don't they?), and occasional bunches of trees, which suggests that perhaps this was all forested at one time. Much of the track is single - just one track, without another one for trains in the opposite direction. On some rides, we've once or twice had to stop before a junction so that a slower train can pass us, before moving on to single track.
We got to Inverness around 4pm, and by the time we returned to our B & B and I'd gone out for a walk, the shops were closing. That's another big difference - after 5, maybe 5.30, nearly all the shops are closed, leaving only pubs and restaurants open.
So after dinner we watched some TV. So far we've only been seeing four available stations - BBC 1 through 4. I've heard of ITV and some Virgin channels (or are they radio stations?) but haven't come across them yet. With only a few channels, water-cooler conversations must have lots more in common, I'm guessing. Shows (programmes) seem to fall into categories: teen and adult soap operas like Eastenders and Coronation Street; documentaries (which is mostly what we watch); sketch comedy and other comedy (I particularly enjoyed an episode of Extras, another Ricky Gervais series); Big Brother, with reality TV participants in a house loaded with cameras; and movies. Almost all movies here are American, and released later (Cars just opened last week, I think) but then we do get some nice European movies, probably earlier than in the states. For instance, there's a new Sin-City style animation with Daniel Craig that I'm looking forward to seeing.
We're about at the midpoint of our traveling, and nearing the end of our time in Scotland. We've been immersed enough that I can pull off a decent Scot accent, and Margo's had a good go at it also, so it'll be interesting to switch gears and start subvocalizing in a new accent. We've really enjoyed Scotland. We actually were hoping we could get Margo placed in Scotland over England - it seems to have better beers, and what other country's whisky can be known only by the label of the country? You can't go into a bar and order a Canadian.
Glasgow is next!
Monday, late morning. I'm writing on the train, currently stationed in Inverness and about to depart to Perth, where we'll change for a train to Glasgow.
Yesterday we woke early in Stromness, packed our bags, and rolled them to the ferry terminal. Our bag wheels are getting some serious mileage on these paving stones. We had breakfast on the ferry in a restaurant nicer (meaning, cleaner and more appealing) than most we'd seen on the island. Then we bused to Thuro, waiting about an hour for the train to Inverness. The waiting crowd gave a wide berth to a group of guys who looked kinda like thugs, talking loudly, drinking cheap lagers and having smokes. They were about my age, too. It seems kind of a unique subculture - I saw some similar packs in Inverness. They tend to wear soccer (football) shirts, and like wearing the wrong color in gang territory, you take a risk wearing the wrong football club's shirt in the wrong place. I guess each culture has its own unique way of acting out.
With the rare sunny weather, the train ride was especially enjoyable. It's such a gorgeous countryside. Open fields, lots of gazing livestock, stone fences (just stacked stone, no mortar apparent ... must have been lots of work, but they do last, don't they?), and occasional bunches of trees, which suggests that perhaps this was all forested at one time. Much of the track is single - just one track, without another one for trains in the opposite direction. On some rides, we've once or twice had to stop before a junction so that a slower train can pass us, before moving on to single track.
We got to Inverness around 4pm, and by the time we returned to our B & B and I'd gone out for a walk, the shops were closing. That's another big difference - after 5, maybe 5.30, nearly all the shops are closed, leaving only pubs and restaurants open.
So after dinner we watched some TV. So far we've only been seeing four available stations - BBC 1 through 4. I've heard of ITV and some Virgin channels (or are they radio stations?) but haven't come across them yet. With only a few channels, water-cooler conversations must have lots more in common, I'm guessing. Shows (programmes) seem to fall into categories: teen and adult soap operas like Eastenders and Coronation Street; documentaries (which is mostly what we watch); sketch comedy and other comedy (I particularly enjoyed an episode of Extras, another Ricky Gervais series); Big Brother, with reality TV participants in a house loaded with cameras; and movies. Almost all movies here are American, and released later (Cars just opened last week, I think) but then we do get some nice European movies, probably earlier than in the states. For instance, there's a new Sin-City style animation with Daniel Craig that I'm looking forward to seeing.
We're about at the midpoint of our traveling, and nearing the end of our time in Scotland. We've been immersed enough that I can pull off a decent Scot accent, and Margo's had a good go at it also, so it'll be interesting to switch gears and start subvocalizing in a new accent. We've really enjoyed Scotland. We actually were hoping we could get Margo placed in Scotland over England - it seems to have better beers, and what other country's whisky can be known only by the label of the country? You can't go into a bar and order a Canadian.
Glasgow is next!
posted by Michael Nelson at 9:48 am
3 Comments:
Mike,
Is it Thuro or Thurso. When Mitch and I went to Scotland many years ago, we went to John'o Groats, near Thurso (where there was a nuclear power plant). The same place, or a different one?
Renie
Enjoyed the stories and pics of your adventures. When I read your preference of the beers in Scotland over England I remembered your Chrome trivia beer quiz with the Hair of the Dog brew names you used in it, and wanted to tell you we ate at Oaks Bottom Public House and sampled "Greg", "Fred", Blue Dot Double IPA", "Rose Tripel", "Fred from the Wood", and "Adam" with some excellent dishes - so now I have some first-hand experience w HOTD.
[http://beeradvocate.com/events/info/9108]
p.s. hope you stay of trouble - wearing the right FIFA colours and driving on the "correct" side of the motorway.
Hi, Renie. It's probably Thurso. It's west of John O'Groats. Sorry for the inconsistency.
Hey, Paul. Glad you're enjoying HOTD. And me? Get into trouble? Come now.
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