Bavaria Day 4: Munich to Prague
Our Tuesday was mostly a day of travel: we had a train trip from about 1 in the afternoon to 7 in the evening. Our trips between cities were about four to six hours each.
I wished I'd had perhaps a day or two more to see two things: the BMW Museum, designed by architect Zaha Ahdid; and the Deutsches Museum of science and technology.
After breakfast, we walked to the Viktualmarkt to get some picnic supplies for a late lunch on the train: pretzels (sliced and buttered); grapes; dried sausages; and sliced cheese.
After checking out, we walked to the train station. We arrived with plenty of time, but noticed that the train leaving at our scheduled time had a different destination than Praha (Prague). We went to the train, asked about its destination, and were told that the train indeed did not go to Prague. Rushing back to an information desk, we got further assistance: we needed to change trains in Schwandorf. We made it back to the train platform with minutes to spare and barely managed to find seats together. After that frustration, we resolved to double-check our itinerary at the start of each remaining trip. This was one of the few times that the language barrier was problematic.
As we rolled through the countryside, I noticed more churches with onion-shaped tops. Most houses had red-orange terracotta roofing tiles, and white exteriors. I also noticed lots of A-frame houses, with overhanging roofs and upstairs balconies, though many were modernised with solar roof panels and multipane glass windows.
After our train change, we were visited by Polizei who gave our passports the most thorough inspections they'd received. The countryside grew more forested. As we passed into the Czech Republic, I tried to guess where the border was. My best guess would be a cleared line I spied in the forest, similar to the forest clearings for power lines.
The human landscape was noticeably shabbier. BMWs were replaced by Skodas. We passed through the city of Plzen (where Pilsner beer originated) and atop one building in giant letters I saw BOHEMIA. Yes! We are Bohemians for a few days! A massive smokestack went past, dominating the city as I looked back at it.
It was dark by the time we arrived in Prague. We were glad to meet our taxi driver, waiting for us on the platform with a sign bearing Margo's name and our hotel. We'd been warned of scams: taxi drivers who overcharge, cashiers giving back less change. Prague is a popular destination for stag nights as costs, especially for beer, are quite cheap for foreign travelers, but scams like these have arisen as a result.
We saw some of the city that night - office towers with some familiar corporate logos at the tops. Our hotel - Metamorphis, no doubt inspired by the well-known book by Prague resident Franz Kafka - was in a courtyard just behind the main square of the city centre. Our room was the biggest, nicest yet - a suite, really, with an entryway, large bathroom, living room, and bedroom.
We were too tired to explore dinner options, so we ate in the hotel's downstairs restaurant. I had hovezi gulas, a beef goulash with potato gnocchi, and a dark Staropramen beer named Granat. Margo had schnitzel, and Sarah ate spaghetti bolognese.
I wished I'd had perhaps a day or two more to see two things: the BMW Museum, designed by architect Zaha Ahdid; and the Deutsches Museum of science and technology.
After breakfast, we walked to the Viktualmarkt to get some picnic supplies for a late lunch on the train: pretzels (sliced and buttered); grapes; dried sausages; and sliced cheese.
After checking out, we walked to the train station. We arrived with plenty of time, but noticed that the train leaving at our scheduled time had a different destination than Praha (Prague). We went to the train, asked about its destination, and were told that the train indeed did not go to Prague. Rushing back to an information desk, we got further assistance: we needed to change trains in Schwandorf. We made it back to the train platform with minutes to spare and barely managed to find seats together. After that frustration, we resolved to double-check our itinerary at the start of each remaining trip. This was one of the few times that the language barrier was problematic.
As we rolled through the countryside, I noticed more churches with onion-shaped tops. Most houses had red-orange terracotta roofing tiles, and white exteriors. I also noticed lots of A-frame houses, with overhanging roofs and upstairs balconies, though many were modernised with solar roof panels and multipane glass windows.
After our train change, we were visited by Polizei who gave our passports the most thorough inspections they'd received. The countryside grew more forested. As we passed into the Czech Republic, I tried to guess where the border was. My best guess would be a cleared line I spied in the forest, similar to the forest clearings for power lines.
The human landscape was noticeably shabbier. BMWs were replaced by Skodas. We passed through the city of Plzen (where Pilsner beer originated) and atop one building in giant letters I saw BOHEMIA. Yes! We are Bohemians for a few days! A massive smokestack went past, dominating the city as I looked back at it.
It was dark by the time we arrived in Prague. We were glad to meet our taxi driver, waiting for us on the platform with a sign bearing Margo's name and our hotel. We'd been warned of scams: taxi drivers who overcharge, cashiers giving back less change. Prague is a popular destination for stag nights as costs, especially for beer, are quite cheap for foreign travelers, but scams like these have arisen as a result.
We saw some of the city that night - office towers with some familiar corporate logos at the tops. Our hotel - Metamorphis, no doubt inspired by the well-known book by Prague resident Franz Kafka - was in a courtyard just behind the main square of the city centre. Our room was the biggest, nicest yet - a suite, really, with an entryway, large bathroom, living room, and bedroom.
We were too tired to explore dinner options, so we ate in the hotel's downstairs restaurant. I had hovezi gulas, a beef goulash with potato gnocchi, and a dark Staropramen beer named Granat. Margo had schnitzel, and Sarah ate spaghetti bolognese.
posted by Michael Nelson at 11:44 am
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